Two days in Yerevan: what to see (and what to skip)

Yerevan rewards walkers. Here is the itinerary we give friends, with timings that actually work.

Day 1 — the classics

1. Republic Square at 09:00, before the heat: pink tuff buildings and the singing fountains (evenings, May–October).
2. Vernissage market (best on weekends) — carpets, silver, Soviet cameras. Haggle gently.
3. Matenadaran — the manuscript library is Armenia's true national treasure. Allow 90 minutes with a guide.
4. Cascade at golden hour: climb the steps (or take the escalator inside), sculpture garden below, Ararat in front.
5. Dinner around Saryan street, Areni by the glass.

Day 2 — the soul

1. Genocide Memorial (Tsitsernakaberd) in the morning — sobering and essential. 2–3 hours with the museum.
2. Kond — the oldest district, all alleys and vine-covered courtyards. Get lost on purpose.
3. GUM market for lunch: dried fruit, cheese, warm lavash.
4. The Blue Mosque and a slow soorj nearby before your evening plans.

What to skip

• The paid viewpoint platforms — Cascade is better and free.
• Northern Avenue shops: the same brands as home, at the same prices.
• Any restaurant with a tout outside. In Yerevan, good places never need one.