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The institution for a first Armenian dinner: wood-panelled rooms, enormous platters and every classic done properly. Always full — book ahead.

★ Обязательно попробуйте: Khorovats platter with grilled vegetables

Armenian classics rethought with a light hand, in a bright space near the Opera. The lavash arrives warm from the tonir, theatrically.

★ Обязательно попробуйте: Lamb kyufta and the honey-gata dessert

A 19th-century house, candle-lit rooms and the dolma that gave it its name. The place for a special evening rather than a quick bite.

★ Обязательно попробуйте: Classic dolma in grape leaves

A family courtyard kitchen in old Kond serving the Lent-born vegetarian repertoire: herb-packed zhingyalov hats, bean dolma, grilled vegetables.

★ Обязательно попробуйте: Zhingyalov hats stuffed with 15 wild herbs

Plastic chairs, lake view, and the best sig and trout on Sevan’s shore — smoked on site. Zero design, maximum flavour.

★ Обязательно попробуйте: Smoked whitefish (sig) with lavash and herbs